At As I Am by Chef Ton, Thai Cuisine is presented not through excess or theatrics, but through refinement, restraint and emotion. Located in the heart of Kuala Lumpur with an iconic view of Merdeka 118, the world’s second-tallest building, the restaurant offers a dining experience that feels quietly luxurious from the very first moment. The space itself is elegant without feeling intimidating. Warm lighting, thoughtful spacing between tables and a beautifully composed Dining Room create an atmosphere that is polished yet welcoming, while the attentive and genuinely friendly Service Team adds a level of comfort that allows the cuisine to take centre stage naturally.
Created by acclaimed Thai Chef Thitid Tassanakajohn (famously known as Chef Ton), As I Am marks Malaysia’s first Modern Thai Fine Dining Restaurant and introduces a refined 12 Course Samrub Experience inspired by the depth and familiarity of Thai flavours. Chef Ton is widely recognised as one of Thailand’s leading culinary figures and became the first Thai Chef to have two of his own Restaurants listed on the prestigious Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants list. His Bangkok Restaurant, Le Du, also earned Michelin recognition and international acclaim for its contemporary interpretation of Thai Cuisine. At As I Am, his approach feels more restrained and delicate, focusing on elegance, balance and emotional connection rather than intensity alone. Every course carries traces of traditional Thai identity while incorporating modern techniques and polished presentation throughout.
The evening begins gently with the Botan Ebi Salad with Rice Cracker, a refreshing opening that immediately establishes the Restaurant’s style. Sweet Botan Ebi is paired with a vibrant Chili Galangal Dressing, while bursts of Ikura add salinity and texture against the crisp Rice Cracker and fragrant Betel Leaf. It is clean, elegant and deeply balanced without overwhelming the palate.
One of the most visually delicate courses follows in the form of the Thai Crepe with Crab Curry and Caviar. King Crab is enveloped within an impossibly light Thai Rice Crepe, while the Yellow Curry underneath delivers warmth and aromatic depth rather than heaviness. The Caviar adds a luxurious finishing touch, but the dish remains restrained and refined, allowing the sweetness of the Crab and the fragrance of the Curry to remain at the forefront.
The Southern Grilled Squid Tentacle introduces smokier and richer notes to the progression. The Squid itself is tender with beautiful charred edges, while the Golae Curry and Coconut Cream create layers of sweetness, spice and gentle acidity from the Calamansi. Despite the stronger flavours, the execution remains controlled and polished.
Among the most memorable savoury courses is the Kanom Jeen Nam Prik Poo. Fermented Rice Noodles are paired with delicate Crab Meat, Banana Blossom and Thai Acacia in a composition that feels both deeply traditional and remarkably modern. The textures are nuanced and the flavours unfold slowly rather than immediately demanding attention.
A Glazed Kaffir Lime Granita arrives as a thoughtful pause within the tasting menu, cleansing the palate with bright citrus notes before transitioning into the richer middle portion of the experience.
The Isan Beef Consommé is one of the most comforting dishes of the evening. Using A4 Miyazaki Beef, the broth carries remarkable depth while remaining incredibly clear and refined. Toasted Rice and Sawtooth Coriander add gentle aromatic layers that evoke familiar Thai flavours in a more elevated form.
The Nam Prik Long Rua course delivers one of the menu’s most beautifully balanced flavour profiles. Rich Shrimp Paste, Crispy Fish, Salted Egg and Sweet Prawn create layers of savoury intensity, yet the inclusion of Rose Apple changes the entire experience. Cool and crisp, the fruit delicately balances the heat and richness in the background without distracting from the core flavours of the dish. It is a subtle detail that demonstrates the precision behind the menu’s construction.
The Red Curry Duck with Longan continues the progression with warmth and elegance. The Duck is beautifully cooked, while the Red Curry carries aromatic spice softened by Coconut Cream and the gentle sweetness of Longan. It feels luxurious without becoming overly rich, maintaining the Restaurant’s consistent sense of restraint.
The Braised Squid with Squid Ink offers deeper Umami notes with Young Ginger and Chinese Celery bringing freshness and lift to the darker flavours of the dish. Meanwhile, the Pennywort Salad with Scallops introduces brightness once again through Grilled Pineapple and Dried Prawn, creating a course that feels vibrant and refreshing.
Equally memorable is the Stir Fried Palm Heart with Prawn, a deceptively simple dish elevated through careful execution. The Palm Heart retains a beautiful texture while Prawn Oil and Coriander Root bring warmth and fragrance to the plate.
Dessert closes the evening gracefully with the Smoked Coconut Ice Cream. The smokiness gives the Ice Cream a uniquely elegant flavour profile that lingers softly rather than overpowering the palate. Paired with Duck Egg Custard, Taro and delicate pieces of Candied Lotus Root, the dessert balances richness, earthiness and texture beautifully. The Taro component in particular pairs exceptionally well with the Smoked Coconut, creating a finish that feels comforting yet refined.
At As I Am, luxury is found not through extravagance, but through detail, balance and intention. The Restaurant succeeds in presenting Thai Cuisine in a way that feels contemporary while still remaining deeply connected to familiarity and heritage. Combined with warm hospitality, elegant interiors and one of Kuala Lumpur’s most striking city views, it stands as one of the city’s most polished and memorable dining experiences today.
Feature Article by The Noise ME’s Lifestyle & Luxury Travel Editor